Date: designed in 2010, created for AW10/11
Brand: Jean Paul Gaultier for La Perla
A slip made from a front panel of fine, sheer, nylon tulle, with a rear of stretch silk satin. The tulle is carefully cut with raw edges, to appear as sheer as possible against the skin. The tulle is carefully machine appliquéd with assymetric and flowing motifs in silk soutache. The shoulder apexes are seamed with rows of silk bias rouleau, which are twisted and and stitched at the centre back between the shouleders, with the ‘tails’ of the rouleau forming a long tassel.
This garment is from the ‘Feuillage’ range (which translates as ‘foliage’) of the Créateur collection, a collaboration between French couturier Jean Paul Gaultier and heritage luxury lingerie house La Perla. The collaboration was launched to the market in 2010 to great critical acclaim at a particularly high price point, with bras in the Feuillage range starting from $500 and briefs from $300. Garments in this range were available in three colourways: teal, blush pink and black. The collection was particularly noteworthy for its use of intricate and time consuming embellishment techniques, many of which are rarely used in contemporary design.
Jean Paul Gaultier founded his eponymous label in 1977 in Paris, France, and soon became renowned as the ‘Enfant Terrible’ of French fashion for his daring and playful approach to design. The label encompasses a fashion empire that covers haute couture, ready to wear, eyewear and perfume. Many of his designs have been strongly influenced by historical lingerie designs, with famous silhouettes including dramatically shaped corsetry and exagerrated bullet bras. The designer has collaborated on a number of ‘ready to wear’ projects, including with the label Wolford in the late 1990s, and with La Perla in the early 2010s.
La Perla was founded in 1954 in Bologna, Italy, by master corsetmaker Ada Masotti. The brand’s name (‘the pearl’) came from the decision to present lingerie as fine jewellery, with the associations of luxury and femininity. The first brand collections were even presented in velvet-lined boxes. The brand treated lingerie as a fashion accessory rather than simply a clothing necessity, using fine fabrics such as French leavers laces, and silks.
From the collection of Karolina Laskowska