Date: 1924
Origin: France
Fabric: Cotton organdie, filet lace, silk ribbon
Brand: Boué Soeurs
A corset cover crafted from fine cotton organdie, with intricate whitework embroidery in floral and botanical motifs, that was entirely hand stitched. The centre panel of embroidered cotton is framed with appliquéd filet lace. A channel of embroidered cotton organdie at the bustline encases pale pink satin ribbon, with the shade visible due to the sheerness of the cotton fabric, with the same silk ribbon forming shoulder straps. A channel at the waist edge encases now-perished elastic. Panels of cotton bobbinet tulle are used at the centre back waist. The corset cover fastens with a series of metal hooks and eyes at the centre back seam. The corset cover is embellished with a silk bow and intricate silk ribbonwork flowers, leaves and vines. The interior of the garment reveals the brand’s label, which features the text ‘Boué Soeurs, 9 Rue de la Paix, Paris, 13 West 56th S., New Yor, Made in France’. This corset cover was originally owned by Matilda Dodge Wilson, and was later part of the Sandy Schreier collection of fashion.
This specific corset cover design was patented in the USA on 15th July 1924. The Boué Soeurs design house applied for a series of patents between 1923 and 1924, due to an increase in counterfeits of their lingerie designs on the market. By this time, the house had established the New York based ‘Boué Soeurs Inc.’ corporation, and was a major importer of French made lingerie to be sold US-wide. The ‘Made in France’ text on the label indicates that this corset cover was created for export within their wholesale segment. Boué Soeurs was one of the first Paris-based couture houses to venture into wholesale business. The wholesale division was formed in 1921, to produce simpler versions of their products for American department stores.
The Boué Soeurs fashion house was founded in 1899 by sisters Madame Sylvie Montegut and Baronne Jeanne d’Etreillis, using their maiden name Boué. It was based in Paris, with their headquarters at 9 Rue De La Paix. The house was renowned for its overtly feminine and elaborate designs, and were particularly renowned for their Robe De Style gowns and lingerie. Signature details of their creations included whitework embroidery, ribbonwork embellishments, metal embroideries and fine laces.
From the collection of Karolina Laskowska