Silk Brocade, Linen & Leather Stays With Alterations & Jet Beading

Silk Brocade, Linen & Leather Stays With Alterations & Jet Beading, late 18th c., Germany. The Underpinnings Museum. Photography by Tigz Rice.

Date: c. late 18th century

Origin: Germany

Fabric: Silk metal brocade, leather, linen

Brand: Custom made

 

A pair of late 18th century stays, crafted from an interior of strongly woven lining and an outer of fine silk-metal blend brocade and leather tabs. It is structured with baleen bones throughout, placed both vertically and horizontally. It fastens at the centre front with spiral lacing through hand stitched eyelets (photographed with a contemporary cotton rather than the original lacing).

At some point in the 19th century, these stays were reworked into fancy dress wear.: the sides and centre back of the garment were cut and haphazardly whipstitched together to make the garment smaller, and decorative jet beaded trim was added to the shoulder straps. It appears that the rear of the garment may have also originally fastened with lacing as there is evidence of additional lacing eyelets here, but unfortunately this part of the original garment was mostly removed during alteration. Much surviving 18th century clothing was at some point refashioned in later years, either to fit 19th century fashions, or to be worn as costume.

 

From the collection of Karolina Laskowskat

Museum number: KL-2022-056

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