Date: 1949
Origin: France
Fabric: Silk lamé, silk velvet, cotton twill, metal sequins
Brand: Erté
A trained bodice with coordinating gauntlets. Both the bodice and gauntlets are crafted from a heavy, yellow cotton twill base, which has been chain-stitch machine stitched with silk velvet appliqués and metal sequins. The centre front line of the bodice is further embellished with six additional appliqués, which are made of silvered glass bugle beads and glass diamantés, stitched to a cotton tulle base.
The bodice is structured with narrow, flat steel bones, which are encase in cotton tapes that have been hand stitched to the bodice interior, to avoid any stitching from showing through the extensive embellishment work. There have been numerous patch repairs done to these bone channels, where it seems the bones have worn through. The bodice fastens with hooks and eyes at the centre back of the garment. The base of the train is also cotton twill, but it is lined with a silk lamé fabric. This is now heavily tarnished (as are the sequins), but would have been much brighter and smoother in appearance when the garment was first made.
This costume was designed by Romain de Tirtoff, known professionally as Erté after 1913, to be worn in performances at the Bal Tabarin cabaret in Paris. Erté’s first venture into costume design was in the spring of 1913, under the tutelage of renowned couturier Paul Poiret. After WWI, he went on to design costumes for many theatrical productions, operas, and music halls, including for Bal Tabarin in 1933. Between 1933 and 1949, Erté costumed a great variety of acts at Bal Tabarin, featuring performers clad in sheer and sparkling fabrics, incorporating spectacular props that continue to be referenced by burlesque performers today. To learn more, please visit our digital exhibition, Erté: Feline Costumes for Bal Tabarin.
From the collection of The Underpinnings Museum
