#UPMTC: The Walls of Jericho, by Casci Ritchie
This blog post – part of a series documenting the first Underpinnings Museum Twitter conference – details the presentation from Casci Ritchie, entitled The Walls of Jericho: Dressing for the bedroom during the 1930s and 1940s.
This presentation will look at the development of women’s loungewear during the 1930s and 1940s and how clothing helped changed society’s view of the ‘boudoir’. Using key films from the period, magazines and archival garments, the author will pinpoint pivotal moments in the development of ‘loungewear’ and its subsequent direct effects on the way society dressed for bedtime. A compact object study will focus on the dressing gown, reflecting on the garment’s history and role within the ‘boudoir’ from functionality to Hollywood glamour.
Casci Ritchie is an independent researcher who recently graduated from University of Glasgow with an MLitt in Dress and Textile Histories. Casci has studied fashion since she was 17, completing a BA Hons in Fashion Design and an MA in Fashion Bodywear, where she specialised in twentieth-century lingerie research and design development. Her recent dissertation focused on the impact of Hollywood cinema and the women of Glasgow’s clothing during the 1940s. She has continued to develop her passion for historical and contemporary fashion from creation to consumption with a particular interest in Hollywood costume and consumer culture.
1 #UPMTC Good morning everyone! Today we're looking at how fashionable women of the 1930s dressed for the bedroom. We’ll explore this through film, magazines and archival garments. pic.twitter.com/a36JG5rjsz
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
@CasciTRitchie 2 #UPMTC The 1934 film ‘It Happened One Night’ portrays the unlikely pairing of Claudette Colbert and Clark Gable. When sharing a cabin, Gable creates a makeshift division in the room for privacy whilst both undress and calls this, ‘The Walls of Jericho’. pic.twitter.com/oFy9cBjNCH
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
@CascTRitchie 3 #UPMTC Dress historian Cunnington remarked, ‘the practice, which arose after the war, of pottering about the house in pyjamas and of both sexes seeing each other to the bathroom, entirely destroyed the ancient association of nightwear and strict privacy.’ pic.twitter.com/hjeoHGs4N8
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
@CasciTRitchie 4 #UPMTC The 40hr work week was established in 1930s, creating leisure time for the working class. Exercise was in vogue & women demanded fashionable yet practical bifurcated garments to match their new active lifestyles. pic.twitter.com/kQ5iiTvUDc
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
@CasciTRitchie 5 #UPMTC Eroticism grew in the 1930s, with erogenous zones such as the back flaunted on the silver screen. Garments reflected this and the interwar period saw a return of ‘femininity’ to fashion, with Madeleine Vionnet's groundbreaking bias cut. pic.twitter.com/AeqjzPuoaz
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
@CasciTRitchie 6 #UPMTC Historian A.J.P. Taylor described cinema-going as the ‘essential social habit of the age’. Forget Paris – it was Hollywood who called the fashion shots. Working class women emulated Hollywood glamour through home sewing, lipstick and marcel waves. pic.twitter.com/PSJtOX6COf
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
@CasciTRitchie 7 #UPMTC Women’s liberation continued from the turn of the century and the traditionally male garment, the trouser, grew in popularity. Pyjamas were the catalyst for modern women to wear trousers, with thanks to their bright colours, patterns and versatility. pic.twitter.com/PciupHXVRV
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
@CasciTRitchie 8 #UPMTC Not everyone approved of pyjamas – the press often ridiculed & some husbands didn't like wives wearing them as they were ‘too masculine’. However, this masculinity seems to be embraced in fashion mags, with readers urged to borrow their pyjamas. pic.twitter.com/uCJEGQ5nJp
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
@CasciTRitchie 9 #UPMTC Practicality reigned during the war & loungewear garments such as bed jackets & hostess gowns began to limbo between bedroom & occasion wear. Loungewear became more conservative with full coverage dressing gowns in synthetics such as nylon. pic.twitter.com/E8qOoXFbW0
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
@CasciTRitchie 10 #UPMTC Fabrics became functional and modest during the austerity of WW2 and traditional button down pyjamas enjoyed a more widespread popularity as Hollywood slashed costume budgets for films for the war effort. pic.twitter.com/BshzQ1AbdK
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
11 #UPMTC Nightwear began to influence daywear (or vice versa) as seen in Rita Hayworth’s nightgown inspired wedding dress in Cover Girl (1944). The waist is cinched in both garments with corsetry detailing which became synonymous with Dior's New Look. pic.twitter.com/5ziCRb2Lz1
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
@CasciTRitchie 12 #UPMTC Hope you have enjoyed my brief overview of 1930s bedroom wear. I look forward to hearing your thoughts about my paper – what do you wear to bed? pic.twitter.com/DrRazE08wO
— Casci Ritchie (@CasciTRitchie) January 12, 2018
We will share each of the conference presentations via its own blog post over the coming weeks. If you’re on Twitter, you can join the discussion via the Underpinnings Museum’s account and the conference hashtag #UPMTC
The header image for this post is the cover of a Lingerie Embroidery Designs Catalogue by Briggs Transfers, from the Underpinnings Museum collections.