Date: c. 1964-1969
Origin: Germany & the USA
Fabric: Nylon, rayon and rubber blend
Brand: Frederick’s Of Hollywood & Escora
This sling bra and panty were sold at Frederick’s of Hollywood sometime in the late sixties or early seventies. The risqué nature of the open cups, revealing the nipples, and open crotch is suggestive of its designation as bedroom attire. A similar bra in the Unnderpinnings Museum’s collection is the Quilted Nylon Sling Bra by Rose Marie. Another 1950s example in the collection features quarter cups, also suggestive of boudoir wear.
The American lingerie brand Frederick’s of Hollywood was based in Hollywood, California as its name suggests, but that is not where it originated. Its founder, Frederick Mellinger, was the son of a tailor and was born and raised in New York City. Mellinger first created the mail-order business Frederick’s Fifth Avenue in 1946. Mellinger said, “I love women. I love their curves. I love looking. That’s how it all started in 1946.” Frederick’s Fifth Avenue sold products that Mellinger’s WWII army buddies suggested based on what they thought was attractive in womenswear and what they thought their girlfriends might like.
In 1971, Mellinger told Women’s Wear Daily that he decided to focus on lingerie because it had always been one of the business’ “strong points” and as a result, it “took off like a bat out of hell.” Of his original business, Fredrick’s Fifth Avenue, he said, “It was a fancy name for a very unfancy set up…I operated out of a 12th floor loft on 28th Street and Fifth Avenue merchandising items which were difficult to find after the war…cotton bloomers and panties were the first thing I advertised.” In that same article, Mellinger stated that he moved his business out to California because he wanted to live in a climate where he could golf and play tennis. He renamed his business Frederick’s of Hollywood when he moved out to California in 1947, but it was often referred to as just “Frederick’s.”
This bra first appeared in the Frederick’s catalog as early as 1959 and was called the ‘’French’ Lift” and was sold into the 1970s. This bra was not produced by Frederick’s of Hollywood, as it was labeled as “imported” in some catalogs. Its description read, “Exotic French lift bares for true bust beauty. Plush edged nylon taffeta acts as sling for each bust, leaving you free but supported. Perlon (nylon jersey) back insures neat line. Pearl White, Siren Black, or Tomtoe Red. Sizes 32 to 38B cup.” It can be seen on page 38 of a Frederick’s catalog from 1964.
Although labeled as “French” from its debut in the late 1950s, it was actually produced by the the German brand Escora. Escora is a German lingerie brand that dates back to 1862. It was founded when Elias Schmidt opened the Escora corset factory in Coburg, Germany, producing corsets for the local nobility. After Elias passed away in 1883, his son Eduard Schmidt took over the business. In 1894, Eduard was joined by his son Gustav, who designed a sports corset which brought great success and grew the business considerably. By 1930 Escora was producing bras, corsets, and corselets. Escora is still in business today crafting high-end, luxury lingerie.
Unlike the bra, the panty was made by Frederick’s of Hollywood and called the “Bikini Belt.” It was described in catalogs as “Too kicky to keep under cover! Mr. Frederick has attached Nylon Lace bikini panties to an elastic garter belt. An all-in-1 piece of below-the-waist beauty! Panties are crotchless. Garters detach, if you wish. White or Black. In sizes 22 to 30 inch waist.” It appeared as early as 1969 and into the early 1970s. The copy for another crotchless panty brief, advertised in 1964, emphasized the “bizarre Continential” style, indicating to an American audience that Europeans (particularly the French as Frederick’s often relied on the cachet of French fashion and culture in its marketing) were more sexually open.
From the collection of Karolina Laskowska
Many thanks to Ellen Greene for the object description and research.
