Date: c. 1950s
Origin: France
Fabric: Nylon
Brand: Star
This bra is an exceptional demonstration of the experimentation with structure and metal components that characterised 1950s bramaking (particularly within Europe). This particular example combines a monowire with U separator (unlike modern underwires, this structure is made of a single solid piece that curves around the body rather than lying flat) and narrow, flat steel boning at the overbust seam to give a defined and slightly pointed bustline.
The bra is strapless, which may explain the heavy use of structure to try to prevent it from slipping down the body. There is some elastication to the bra, with the back fastening formed with two stripes of elastic that cross over, ending with hooks that slot into eyelets on the bra wings (particularly noteworthy is the stitched buttonhole that allows one of these elastic fastenings to pass through for a flatter finish against the body).
The bra is made of nylon, incorporating a lightly translucent lining, delicate leavers lace, satin trims and a soft tulle ruffle at the neck edge and over the U-wire. The soft ‘tea rose’ colourway and romantic lace and tulle trims are relatively typical for French lingerie of this period.
The original swing tag is printed with the brand name ‘Star’ on one side, and on the other side ‘Nylon/Armature Garantié Incassable’ (followed by the reference number 2700 and price 2600, presumably old French francs). Although nylon was first invented in the 1930s, it only really became widely available within the 1950s due to the lift on wartime restrictions on the fibre, making it an exciting and desirable textile. It’s also interesting to note that the bra wire is described as ‘guaranteed unbreakable’, suggesting that this may have been a problem with other bra wire styles.
From the collection of Karolina Laskowska
