Date: c. 1930s
Origin: Spain
Fabric: Silk satin, machine lace
Brand: Custom made
A luxurious bridal trousseau ensemble that is entirely hand stitched and crafted from fine silk satin and machine made lace. It comprises of a long nightgown, bed jacket and tap pants. The choice of cuts, materials and techniques would have been incredibly expensive, and suggest that this collection belonged to a wealthy member of high society. Although the garments are very clearly well worn, they have been kept in remarkable condition and were evidently treasured.
The nightgown is made with a machine lace bodice, an embroidered satin yoke, and a voluminous bias cut satin skirt, with the hem measuring over 4m in length. The skirt has been carefully seamed along the fabric’s selvedge to minimise waste. the bodice of the garment is intricately embellished. The skirt is gathered into the yoke at the centre front with incredibly delicate smocking. There is floral satin stitch embroidery flowing over the yoke and onto the lace body. Incredible narrow silk rouleau forms delicate bows at yoke, bust and shoulders. The scalloped edge of the lace trims the neckline and shoulders of the garment, and is gathered into the latter portion for additional volume. The bodice is very fitted, and fastens at the rear with tiny hand stitched eyelets and narrow silk rouleau lacing.
The tap pants have a relatively simple cut that was more commonly found in the 1920s. The main body is crafted from angular panels of silk satin with small darts at the waist, with a wide strip of silk stitched between the legs as the gusset. The tap pants are embellished with a lace trim at the hem. Smaller lace motifs have been cut out and applied at the waistline, and to trail up the body. Small silk rouleau bows trim the front sides of the garment, and a ruffled lace trim is applied to the waistline. The garment fastens with small mother of pearl buttons at the side seams.
Finally, the bed jacket is crafted largely from silk satin, with an appliquéd lace trim finishing the neckline and cuffs. There is extensive delicate smocking on this piece, most notably on the underbust trim and shoulders. The garment fastens at the underbust with two rows of silk rouleau ties. The cuffs fasten with adjustable silk rouleau drawstrings.
From the collection of The Underpinnings Museum
