Acetate

A type of rayon, a semi-synthetic, polymer based material created from cellulose fibres that are generated from wood pulp. It can be extruded into yarns and knitted or woven into fabric.

Adjuster (also: slider, regulator)

A type of hardware commonly found on bra straps that allow the length to be changed. These are most commonly made from metal (sometimes with an enamelled coating) or plastic.

Aertex

A type of lightweight and loosely woven cotton material that was designed to trap air between the warp and weft of the threads. This had the effect of the material being both breathable and insulating, depending on the circumstances, and made it a favoured textile for underwear and sportswear. The material was named after the company that manufactured it, which was established in 1888 in Manchester, England.

Art silk (also: artificial silk)

‘Art silk (shortened from artificial silk) was a term used to describe viscose rayon, most commonly used in 1920s marketing materials. It was promoted as a more affordable alternative to silk.

Baleen (also: whalebone)

Baleen most commonly refers to the stiff keratinous plates that are taken from the mouth of a baleen whale. This material was commonly used as a method to stiffen clothing, most notably in corsets. This material is often referred to as ‘whalebone’, although it is not technically bone.

Babydoll

Definition coming soon.

Band

The part of a bra which encircles the ribcage and back, providing the majority of support for the breasts. The band is also known as the bra frame, especially when made from a single piece of fabric. When separate, the back band pieces are sometimes called wings.

Bandeau

A type of narrow strapless bra with little breast support.

Basque

A long-line cupped bra reaching the hips, often with suspender straps for stockings on the lower edge.

Batiste

A balanced plain woven fine cloth made from cotton or linen such as cambric. Batiste was often used as a lining fabric for high-quality garments. Batiste is also used for handkerchiefs (cotton batiste) and lingerie (batiste de soie).

Bed jacket

The bedjacket is a short cut jacket style designed to be worn whilst reclining or sitting in bed. Early examples can be dated to the 19th century, but the style was popularised in the 1930s after it appeared heavily in Hollywood films, quickly gaining an association of glamour and luxury. Bed jackets became more of a decorative lingerie style, as opposed to purely being worn for warmth. Fabrics such as lace, tulle and satin became popular, alongside extravagant embllishments such as feathers, embroidery and appliqué.

Bobbin lace

A type of handmade lace that is made from twisting and braiding threads that are wound onto bobbins. The lace is typically worked onto a pillow, with the pattern marked out with pins.

Bobbinet

A machine made tulle netting that imitates handmade lace tulle, typically made of cotton. It was originally made on the Bobbinet machine, first created by John Heatcoat in 1808. Bobbinet is characterised by its hexagonal structure, and as a material renowned for its delicacy and durability.

Body (also: bodysuit)

A machine made tulle netting that imitates handmade lace tulle, typically made of cotton. It was originally made on the Bobbinet machine, first created by John Heatcoat in 1808. Bobbinet is characterised by its hexagonal structure, and as a material renowned for its delicacy and durability.

Bone (also: boning)

A component that provides structure and tension to a garment. Typically, they can be found in corsets to help maintain vertical tension and to support the compression of the garment. Favoured historical materials for bones included baleen and steel. In contemporary garments, it is more common to see plastic used, as it is cheaper and easier to launder.

Boudoir cap (also: boudoir bonnet)

The boudoir cap is a type of lingerie headwear, most commonly worn during the nineteenth to early twentieth centuries. It was originally worn over undressed hair, worn in the privacy of the boudoir alongside nightwear. In the 1910s and 1920s, it would be commonly worn to protect shorter hair styles during sleep. As the designs became more and more elaborate towards the 1930s, it began to be considered more of a decorative hair net. Like other forms of lingerie, boudoir caps were usually made in fine fabrics such as lace, tulle and satin. Embellishment was often profuse, with techniques such as ribbonwork being particularly commonplace.

Bow

A type of knot, typically tied with two loose ends and two loops, and commonly used as a form of decoration in underwear.

Bridge (also: centre front, connector, gore)

The piece of a bra which connects the cups and separates the breasts. Also known as the connector.

Brocade

A woven fabric with raised patterns. It is a type of Jacquard weave.

Broché

A woven brocade fabric, which alongside the primary weft has a patterning weft, providing the pattern of the weave (in stripes) in certain areas of the fabric. The patterning of the decorative warp is performed in a similar way, in which non-patterning wefts or warps lie free on the back of the fabric (though these may be cut off). It is commonly used in corsetry, typically with a woven dot design.

Broderie Anglaise

French for “English embroidery”. It is fabric embellishment technique involving patterns of holes which are cut out of the fabric and then bound with buttonhole stitches. It became associated with England due to its popularity there in the 19th century.

Busk

The supporting bone or fastening at the centre fron of a corset. The term busk can either refer to the (often removable) wide bone inserted at the front of stays or early corsets, or the two-part metal fastening used in later corset designs.

Casing (also: channel)

The fabric tube which bra wires or boning are threaded through. For underwires, the fabric should be thick and soft for comfort.

Celanese

A type of branded rayon produced by the company British Celanese (the name comes from a contraction of ‘celluloid’ and ‘ease’; rayon is a cellulose based fibre). Celanese was marketed as an affordable and easy to care for alternative to silk.

Celluloid

A type of early plastic, first invented in 1848. In clothing, it was typically used as a substitute for more expensive animal materials such as ivory and horn. Its use gradually fell out of favour as the material is highly flammable.

Cellulosic fibres

Textile fibres of plant based origin. They can be natural (e.g. cotton, linen) or manufactured (e.g. rayon, acetate).

Chantilly lace

Originally a type of bobbin lace named after the Chantilly region of France, where the style is thought to have originated. It is typified by a hexagonal tulle ground and outlined patterns, often floral in design. The term ‘Chantilly’ is also used to refer to machine made laces that imitate the original bobbin lace style.

Chemical lace

A type of machine made lace (which can also be referred to as ‘Schiffli’ lace) that is created by machine embroidering a pattern onto a sacrificial base fabric, which is then chemically dissolved to leave the embroider in a standalone design.

Chenille

A type of yarn with a fluffy, protruding pile. It is commonly used for embellishment, as a trim or embroidery material.

Chiffon

A light and transparent woven fabric with a smooth hand. It is typically made of silk, but can also be created from synthetic fibres such as nylon, or semi-synthetic fibres such as rayon.

Convertible bra (also: multiway bra)

A bra with detachable straps which can be worn in multiple styles, including halterneck, cross back and strapless.

Corded lace

A type of lace where the pattern is outlined with heavier corded yarns, making the textile more three dimensional.

Corselette (also: corselet)

A single garment incorporating a bra and girdle, giving the wearer breast support in addition to figure shaping control over the waist, hips and abdomen.

Cotton

The soft, fibrous substance taken from the area surrounding the seeds of the cotton plant. It is commonly processed into thread and fabric.

Coutil

A tightly woven fabric, typically made of cotton, and commonly used in corsetry. It is commonly created with a twill weave and is strong and sturdy.

Crêpe

A woven fabric with a characteristic crisp appearance and hand. It is often lightweight, and popular fibre choices include silk and synthetics.

Crin

A woven braid or fabric, originally created from horsehair, and is characterised by its stiff hand. It is commonly used in millinery and to stiffen garment hems. Crin is more commonly made from synthetic fibres now, and the fabric variety has grown in popularity as a material for corsetry, due to its sheer appearance.

Cup

The part of a bra which contains the breast tissue.

Damask

A woven fabric with a reversible pattern, woven on a Jacquard loom. Unlike a brocade, a damask has a much smoother hand and the patterns are not raised.

Dead stock

A term used to describe merchandise that was never sold to or used by consumers before being removed from sale, usually because it was outdated. Dead stock is often warehoused, but it can also subsequently be offered for sale and typically retains its original package and tags.

Demi-cup

A bra cup with less coverage than a full cup, but which still covers the nipple.

Devoré

A technique where a mixed-fibre fabric (e.g. a nylon and rayon blend) is printed with a chemical that dissolves the cellulosic fibres. This creates a semi-transparent pattern on an opaque fabric and is most often used on velvet.

Dobby

A woven fabric produced on a dobby loom, characterised by small geometric patterns and/or extra texture in the cloth. The patterns produced are much simpler than those which can be created using a Jacquard loom.

Dress form (also: mannequin, tailor’s dummy)

A three-dimensional model of the torso used for fitting clothing that is being designed or sewed, or for displaying clothing within exhibition spaces.

Duchesse satin

A heavy and glossy weave of satin, typically made of silk.

Dupion

A type of woven fabric, typically of silk fibres, that is typified by a smooth warp yarn, and a rougher weft yarn. Although it can be created with a smoother and lustrous appearance, it is commonly quite three dimensional, with ‘slubs’ (entangled silk cocoons) adding texture.

Elastic

A tape or fabric that is woven or knitted with strips of rubber (or a synthetic substitute), allowing the material to stretch and return to its original length or shape once released.

English net

An alternative name for ‘bobbinet’, which was first invented in England in 1808.

Faggotting

A decorative embroidery method of joining two pieces of fabric by means of an insertion stitch, so that the fabric edges have a small gap in between.

Featherbone

A pre-made cotton tape with enclosed feather quills, intended as a sewing trim to help stiffen garments. Featherbone was commonly used to structure undergarments such as corsets and petticoats. The pre-made nature of the tape made it incredibly easy to be used by home dress makers, as it could be machine stitched directly to garments.

Filet lace

A type of embroidered lace created be stitching or weaving threads into a ground of square mesh netting.

Flat-felled seam

A flat-felled seam is the result of enclosing both seam allowances by interlocking opposing folded edges beneath two parallel rows of machine stitching through all layers. Sometimes referred to as the jeans seam. Used where a hard wearing seam is required.

Foam

A material intended to add padding, often to brassiere cups, and usually spongy to the touch. It is now commonly made of polyurethane, a synthetic polymer.

Full cup

A bra cup where fabric covers most of the breast tissue.

Georgette

A thin variety of the crepe fabric weave which is often slightly sheer. Usually made of silk or synthetic fibres.

Grosgrain

A heavy, ribbed weave of fabric. It is commonly found in ribbon form.

Guipure lace

A heavy type of bobbin lace, characterised by the pattern being joined by ‘brides’ (bars), rather than a net ground. This handmade variety of lace is now imitated by machine made chemical lace.

Habotai (also: parachute silk)

A plain, woven silk, often with a light hand and slight sheen. It is also colloquially known as ‘parachute silk’, as parachutes were originally made with this material.

Halterneck

A style of bra or top with a single strap which runs around the back of the wearer’s neck. Both ends of the strap are attached to the front of the garment.

Herringbone

A type of fabric weave, also known as a broken twill weave, typified by its distinct V shapes weaving pattern. This weave can commonly be found in coutil fabrics.

Hook & eye

A type of fastening, commonly made of metal, comprising of a hook and a loop (also known as an eye). The parts may be stitched individually onto a garment, or they may be part of a pre-manufactured tape. It is commonly found in the closures of brassieres.

Jacquard

A type of loom based on a punch card system, created to automate the process of weaving patterns into fabric. It is named for Joseph Marie Jacquard, who patented the machine in 1808. The term ‘Jacquard’ can also refer to patterned fabrics made on a Jacquard loom.

Jersey

A knitted fabric that has a modicum of stretch. It can be made of wool, cotton, silk or synthetic fibres.

Lamé

A fabric, typically based on silk fibres, that has been woven or knitted with metal threads.

Lastex

An elastic yarn consisting of a core of latex wound with threads of cotton, rayon, nylon, or silk. Used to give a one-way or two-way stretch to fabrics and garments.

Lawn

A plain woven fabric, typically made of cotton. It often has a high thread count and smooth, soft hand.

Leather

A material made from animal skin that has been tanned to preserve it.

Leavers lace (also: Levers lace)

A type of machine made lace created on the ‘Leavers’ loom, invented John Lever in 1813. The original machine was adapted from Heathcoat’s bobbinet machine. The Leavers machine was further adapted with the Jacquard apparatus (the technology behind the Jacquard loom), and by 1841, the machine was able to create lace with a pattern, outline and base net. Early Leavers laces were intended as a more affordable substitute for handmade bobbin laces. Leavers looms continue to be used to this day to create lace, often for the luxury portion of the fashion market.

Linen

A fibre created from the flax plant, commonly woven into fabric or spun into thread.

Longline bra

A bra with a deep band, often reaching to the waist. Sometimes called a bustier.

Lurex

A thread that has been coated in plastic to give it a metallic appearance. It can also be woven or knitted into a fabric.

Lycra

A brand name for an elastane fibre, created by DuPont. Lycra is typically knitted into fabrics or trims to give them stretch.

Machine lace

Lace that has been made by a machine (such as a Leavers or Raschel loom) as opposed to by hand.

Marabou

Typically a feather trim, originally made from the wing and tail feathers of the African Marabou stork. Typically, these fringes are now made with turkey feathers as a substitute.

Marquisette

A sheer, lightweight mesh or net fabric which can be made from almost any fibre.

Mesh

A loosely woven or knitted fabric with visible open spaces between yarns. May also be called a net.

Moiré

A woven textile with a wavy patterned appearance to the surface. It is typically made of silk (and may also be known as ‘watered silk’), but may also be produced from other fibres. True moiré is produced through a technique known as ‘calendering’, in which the fabric is run through ribbed rollers with high temperatures and pressure. A moiré effect can also be produced through the fabric weave, by varying the tension in the warp and weft.

Monowire

A metal structure that is typically stitched into brassieres, intended to support the bust. It resembles a pair of underwires, joined in the centre to make a single structure.

Muslin

A lightweight, woven cotton fabric.

Nylon (also: polyamide)

A synthetic polymer fibre that can be extruded as filaments, and woven or knitted into fabric. It was first introduced by DuPont in 1939, and remains a popular material for underwear manufacturing due to its hardwearing and easy laundering qualities.

Opera top

An early to mid-twentieth century type of camisole, slip or vest with a straight bodice and ribbon straps. These were often knitted and vintage patterns can still be found online.

Organdie

A fine and slightly translucent woven cotton muslin fabric.

Overwire

A metal structure that is typically stitched into brassieres. Unlike underwires, it is placed over the bust. It was considered particularly suitable for strapless and plunging silhouettes.

Plain weave

The most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves. The warp and weft are aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. It is a strong and hard-wearing weave.

Plunge bra

A bra with an angled demi-cup and a very low centre front.

Point d’esprit

A tulle with a decorative dot pattern.

Polyester

A synthetic polymer fibre that can be extruded as filaments, and woven or knitted into fabric. The first polyester filiments were created by Calico Printers Association in Accrington, Lancashire in 1941. It remains a popular fibre choice in contemporary fashion, as it is now one of the most inexpensive fabric options on the market.

Poplin

A strong fabric, made using a plain weave, which is easy to iron.

Powernet

A typically nylon and elastane blend, knitted fabric. It is known for its high compression and relatively low stretch capability, and is favoured for use in shapewear.

Powermesh

A typically nylon and elastane blend, knitted fabric. It typically has a much higher stretch capability than powernet, so is not suitable for compression garments.

Push up bra

A padded bra with an angled demi-cup, often low cut, designed to enhance a small bust.

Raschel lace

A warp knitted, machine made lace produced on the Raschel machine. These are typically made of synthetic fibres. Raschel laces are typically much cheaper than Leavers laces, and can be produced at higher speeds, greater volumes, with less human labour.

Rayon

A semi-synthetic, polymer based material created from cellulose fibres that are generated from wood pulp. It can be extruded into yarns and knitted or woven into fabric.

Ribbon slot (also: beading)

A type of lace trim with large open areas, through which decorative ribbon could be threaded.

Ring

A metal or plastic finding often used to attach the straps to the cup and to the back of the band.

Rosette

A type of highly decorative bow, commonly used as embellishment.

Sateen

A woven fabric, typically made of cotton, with a lustrous satin weave. Sateen fabrics typically use shorter fibres than satin fabrics, and so are less lustrous.

Satin

A woven fabric, created with long fibres for a lustrous and glossy finish. Satin can be made of silk and synthetic fibres. Satin describes the way the threads are combined rather than the type of yarn used. The satin weave is characterized by four or more weft yarns floating over a warp yarn or vice versa, four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn.

Schiffli embroidery

A fabric or trim, typically based on tulle, and embroidered by the multi-needle, industrial Schiffli machine. The Schiffli embroidery machine was invented in 1863 in Switzerland by Isaak Gröbli.

Separator

A metal structure that is typically inserted into a bra between the breasts, designed to create a more structured and separated area at this point.

Silk

Fibres taken from the cocoons of domesticated silk moths (Bombyx Mori). These can be spun into yarn and woven or knitted into a fabric.

Spandex (also: elastane)

A synthetic elastic fibre. Spandex is typically knitted into fabrics or trims to give them stretch.

Spoon busk

A metal fastening, typically used in the front of a corset, with a rounded spoon-like shape at the base. It is distinct for its three-dimensional curve that is designed to sit over and support the abdomen.

Stays (also: a pair of bodies)

Description coming soon

Straps

The part of a bra which goes over the shoulder or around the neck. These provide some, but not all, of the support needed for the breasts.

Strap hook

A metal or plastic g-shaped finding with a loop and a hook. Used in place of rings on a convertible bra so that the straps can be detached.

Strapless bra

A bra where the band provides all of the breast support. Can sometimes feature a deeper band and boning.

Suede

A leather that has been finished with a soft and fuzzy nap. This is typically either done to the flesh side of the leather, or after the outer layer has been removed.

Suspenders

Straps (usually made of elastic) attached to the lower edge of an undergarment with metal or, more recently, plastic clips on the bottom for attaching temporarily to stocking tops.

Synthetic Fibres

A type of textile fibre made from synthesised polymers (e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic). Synthetics are tough, lightweight and easy to care for.

Tactel

A branded nylon microfibre, produced by DuPont.

Taffeta

A plain woven fabric with a lustrous finish and a crisp hand. It can be made from silk, rayon or synthetic fibres.

Taped seam

A seam with twill or ribbon tape, bias binding, net or a fabric strip included in the line of stitching. Used to add strength, firmness and stability to seams.

Tapered busk

A metal fastening, typically used in the front of a corset, with a tapered shape that widens towards its base.

Tassel

A gathered bundle of hanging cords or threads, intended as an embellishment.

Tea rose

A subtle shade of pink often used in the manufacture of women’s underwear during the early to mid twentieth century.

Technical flat

A type of illustration used to accurately convey design ideas and garment details to pattern cutters and machinists.

Tencel

A branded viscose microfibre, produced by Courtalds.

Terylene

A branded polyester fibre, originally produced by ICI.

Tricot

A plain warp-knitted fabric – where the yarn zigzags vertically rather than horizontally – that is machine made with a close knit, good drape and very little stretch . Tricot is very resistant to runs and so is commonly used in lingerie.

Trim

A textile based band, typically used as a form of embellishment. In underwear, common examples of trims include laces and embroideries.

Tulle

A net structure fabric. It can be made of many different fibres, including silk, cotton and nylon.

Twill

A type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. This is achieved by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a “step” or offset between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern.

Underwire

A metal structure, typically in the shape of a semi-circle. They are normally stitched as a pair into the underbust of a brassiere and designed to support the bust.

Valenciennes lace

Originally a type of bobbin lace named after the Valenciennes region of France. The patterns typically are flat, have no raised borders, and often incorporate floral or scrolling motifs. Valenciennes style laces are now commonly produced on Leavers looms.

Velcro

A type of branded plastic fastening, incorporating one side of small loops and another of flexible hooks. These two sides can be pressed together to secure, and pulled apart to open. It was initially patented in 1955 by George de Mestral.

Velvet

A woven fabric, typified by a thick and soft pile on one side. This is formed by the cutting of the warp loop threads. Velvet can be made of many different fibres, including silk, viscose, cotton and synthetics.

Viscose

A type of rayon, a semi-synthetic, polymer based material created from cellulose fibres that are generated from wood pulp. Viscose is created from a different chemical process to standard rayon.

Warp

In weaving, the warp is the set of lengthwise yarns that are held in tension on a frame or loom.

Wax flower

A floral embellishment created from wax. Commonly used in bridal garments such as tiaras and hair accessories, but occasionally found on other garments such as garters.

Weft

In weaving, the weft is the term for the yarn which is drawn through the warp yarns to create cloth. Warp is the lengthwise or longitudinal thread in a roll, while weft is the transverse thread.

Wings

The sections of the bra band which wrap around the sides and the back of the body, usually fastening at the centre back.

Wool

Hair from sheep, which can be spun into yarn and used to create woven or knitted fabrics.

Zip (also: zipper)

A metal or plastic fastening, made with two flexible strips of ‘teeth’, which interlock as a slide is pulled up them.