Date: c. 1950s
Origin: United States
Brand: Java Lusso
This spiral stitched bullet bra offers the pointed bustline typical of 1950s fashions, but is constructed in a deceptively complex way. The cradle and wings of the bra are made of a single pattern piece per side (seamed together at the centre front and darted to achieve a 3D shape), extending over the bustline and entirely encasing the cups. Each cup is made of four vertically and horizontally seamed panels, with an additional internal scalloped lining panel. The cups are then spiral stitched (which would have been undertaken with a special dedicated sewing machine) to provide additional support and re-enforcement. The cups are inserted into the circular cradle with a lapped seam, a sewing technique that would have required a phenomenal amount of skill and accuracy.
The bra has a decorative trim of tulle at the neckline edge, and is hemmed with a nylon bias tape that has been twin needle lockstitched over the seam allowance. It fastens with a metal hook and elastic at the centre back. The shoulder straps are made of a non-stretch, patterned nylon ribbon and are cut as a fixed length.
From the collection of Karolina Laskowska