Romain de Tirtoff, known professionally as Erté after 1913, is best remembered for his fashion illustrations exemplifying the glamorous Art Deco style. His decorated career as a costume designer, which spanned over six decades, is less well-known but just as impressive.  

Erté: Feline Costumes for Bal Tabarin elebrates the museum’s acquisition of vintage costumes by Erté, designed to be worn by showgirls at the Bal Tabarin cabaret in Paris. It begins with an examination of Erté’s early career, including his first venture into theatrical costume design under the employ of avant-garde couturier Paul Poiret, and his designs for stage and screen during the “roaring twenties.” The second section highlights the history of Bal Tabarin, a venue frequented by tourists due to its reputation for being the home of the French can-can dance. Archival footage brings this lively venue to life.

These provide a foundation for the final section, revealing three risqué showgirl costumes by Erté, now in the collection of the Underpinnings Museum. These dramatic, sequined costumes are compared alongside souvenir album photographs of the same costumes being worn in Parisian revues Un Vrai Paradis, during the Nazi occupation of Paris, and Reflets, during the postwar period. Throughout, the story of Erté’s design talent is blended with the history of cabaret and showgirl costumes.