'Formidable' Chantilly Lace & Tulle Lingerie Set by Damaris

'Formidable' Chantilly Lace & Tulle Lingerie Set by Damaris, 2011, UK. The Underpinnings Museum. Photography by Tigz Rice.

Date: 2011

Origin: United Kingdom

Fabric: Silk and synthetic tulle, machine lace

Brand: Damaris

 

A bralet and brief set in white chantilly lace and tulle. The bralet has cups of of sheer lace and an underband of elasticated silk georgette. The shoulders are crafted from gathered tulle that has been embellished with small golden studs. The bra fastens at the centre front with a golden horseshoe shaped clasp. The coordinating briefs are diagonally seamed at the front, joining sheer lace with a panel of gathered tulle that has been embellished with the same golden stud detail as the shoulders. The rear of the briefs is crafted in sheer tulle, with satin cord threaded through loops to create decorative corset-style lacing.

Damaris arguably popularised lacing detail on women’s knickers in contemporary design. Although lacing as a practical fastening was present in undergarments throughout the 19th century, it wasn’t until the early 20th century that French lingerie & fetishwear brand Diana Slip popularised it as a purely erotic design detail.

The Damaris lingerie brand was founded by designer Damaris Alice Turle Evans in 2001, following graduation from Central St. Martins with a Fashion Design with Print Making degree. The brand was launched following a £5000 loan from The Prince’s Trust, which went on to sponsor the label’s first showcase at London Fashion Week. The diffusion line ‘Mimi Holliday’ was launched in 2004. Damaris quickly became renowned for its irreverent approach to design, and became particularly renowned for its horseshoe bra clasps and elaborate back designs on knickers. Details such as oversized bows, lacing and exposed ‘bottom cleavage’ quickly became signatures. The diffusion line ‘Mimi Holliday’ was launched in 2004, offering the aesthetic spirit of the Damaris brand at a lower price point.

Both Damaris and Mimi Holliday went into administration in 2019, with the Mimi Holliday brand reopening in 2020 under new ownership. In 2021, Damaris Evans designed a collection for British retailer Marks & Spencer’s ‘Boutique’ range.

 

From the collection of Karolina Laskowska

Museum number: KL-2022-029

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