'Shh…' Silk Capelet, Bra & Half Slip By Pillowbook

'Shh…' Silk Capelet, Bra & Half Slip By Pillowbook, c. 2014, China. The Underpinnings Museum. Photography by Tigz Rice.

Date: c. 2014

Origin: China

Fabric: Silk satin, silk crepe, silk georgette

Brand: Pillowbook

 

A capelet, bralet and half slip crafted from various weaves of fine silk. Each piece uses graphic silk appliqué in shades of soft grey on a base of white. This appliqué technique requires a great detail of skill and patience to execute: strips of grey silk are stitched into tubes and turned out so that the raw fabric edges are hidden inside, and then hand stitched into the patterns onto the white silk base. These patterns are then machine top stitched, with the initial hand basting stitches completely removed. Each garment showcases extremely fine craftsmanship and hand finishing, with the interiors of the garments as cleanly finished as the exteriors.

The capelet is crafted from a base of white sheer silk georgette, with grey silk satin detailing. It fastens at the rear of the neck with a metal hook and eye. The bralet is created entirely in silk satin, with white base cups embellished with grey detailing, and a contrasting grey underband and shoulder straps. The bralet’s underband encases elastic, and fastens at the rear with a custom designed metal clasp. The half slip is created from two layers of silk: an interior of grey silk crepe backed satin (with the satin layer against the skin), and an outer of white crepe. The slip has graphic cut outs at the hip line, and fastens with silk straps and metal hooks at the waistline.

The ‘Shhh…’ range is characterised by its graphic silk appliqué detailing, and alongside this ensemble also includes a a dudou, half cup bralet, suspender belt, cutout briefs, thong, French knicker, shorts and trousers. Like all of Pillowbook’s designs, it showcases fine couture craftsmanship. The range was originally designed in this standard white and grey colourway, but can also be made in custom silk colours according to the client’s preferences.

Pillowbook was founded in 2013 by designer Irene Lu, wanting to promote traditional Chinese lingerie and championing couture hand crafting. The brand name is taken from the illustrated erotic guides that were traditionally gifted to Chinese newlyweds, giving the brand’s roots of a design aesthetic that aims to ‘inspire [their] lovers to seduce, pleasure and empower’.

 

From the collection of Karolina Laskowska

Museum number: KL-2022-058

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