This overwire bra was arguably the most difficult garment to reproduce out of all the objects selected by the students. As with the Warner’s Merry Widow, it is difficult to pattern due to the mix of stretch and rigid fabrics, and the fact that the materials are under tension due to the overwire.

Unlike underwires, overwires have largely fallen out of use in contemporary lingerie. Consequently, sourcing one with a similar profile and size to the original bra’s proved impossible. Fortunately, Xiangte Chen was able to find an innovative solution for this problem: working with a metalwork student, a custom made overwire was created to the same specifications as the original garment. Unlike an underwire, the overwire is not a flat piece of wire, but a three dimensional object that wraps around the body, producing even more challenges in recreation and pattern drafting.

Stitching a replica of this garment required a great deal of precision and millimetre level accuracy. The construction details of this bra include a decorative bow overlay on the cups, quilting, faggoted seams and padded overwire channels.

Due to the irregular and three dimensional shape of the overwire itself, inserting it into the bra would have been exceptionally difficult compared to traditional underwires. There is little doubt that the construction challenges of this style may have contributed to its fall out of popularity with underwear manufacturers!

Date: c. 1950s

Origin: United States

Fabric: Nylon

Brand: Bali

Although overwired bras were first seen in the 1930s, it was only by the 1950s with the lift of wartime material restrictions that these structured bra styles became truly popular. The shape of these bras made them most suitable for the plunging necklines of eveningwear fashions, giving support and security. The overwire was a relatively constricting structure with little flexibility, so it’s perhaps no surprise that these bras often featured interior padding on the wire stress points. They were arguably not as comfortable as their underwired counterparts, so it’s perhaps little surprise that this style almost completely fell out of manufacturing, with only a few independent lingerie brands today ‘reviving’ the shape.

This bra has a number of noteworthy construction details, particularly on the cups. The cup shape is achieved with a vertical dart, which has been stitched with a faggoting style ladder braid. The bottom of the cups are machine quilted, and a decorative signature nylon bow is appliquéd across the centre front of the cups. The longline shape maintains its vertical tension with steel bones alongside the complex overwire structure itself. Satin encased padding is sewn into the garment interior at key stress points for comfort. The bra wings are a stretch mesh, edged with plush elastic. The bra fastens with hooks and eyes at the centre back.

The Bali Brassiere company began as the ‘Fay-Miss’ in 1927, later changing the brand name in 1935 to reflect their most popular products, the Bali range. A signature design feature was the ‘bow’ decorative overlay, which can be found on a wide range of Bali’s products, from various bra shapes to slips and shapewear. This bra originally sold for $8.50, which would be approximately $75 in today’s currency.

Date: 2017

Origin: United Kingdom

Fabric: Nylon

Made by Xiangte Chen, MA Pattern & Garment Technology, London College of Fashion

Technical illustration and garment pattern by Xiangte Chen, MA Pattern & Garment Technology, London College of Fashion, UAL.

The pattern is not shown to scale.

This pattern should only be tackled at your own risk! This overwire bra is incredibly difficult to recreate in any capacity, and should only be attempted by experienced pattern makers and sewists. The overwire in this replica was custom made and cannot be found commercially. You could experiment with your own structuring techniques (such as making an overwire with piano wire), or applying decorative elements such as the bow cup overlay to other designs.

Chapter 1: Introduction, Aertex & Elastic Bust Bodice c. 1900s

Chapter 2: Satin Cathedral Bra With Celluloid Boning

Chapter 3: ‘High Line’ CC41 Cotton Bra By Kestos

Chapter 4: ‘Floating Action’ Spiral Stitch Bra By Exquisite Form

Chapter 5: Embroidered Nylon Tulle ‘Merry Widow’ By Warner

Chapter 6: Overwire ‘Bow’ Longline Bra By Bali

Chapter 7: Cotton Sun Top By St. Michael