Date:1955
Origin: France
Brands: Cadolle, Marie-Rose Lebigot, Charmis, Andrée Lefaucher, Marie-José Lapchin, Gloriane
A 1955 French editorial excerpt from the publication Dans La Haute Corseterie featuring illustrations of six corselets by brands Cadolle, Marie-Rose Lebigot, Charmis, Andree Lefaucheur, Marie-Jose Lapchin, and Gloriane. The corselets were designed to “donnant la silhouette mince et longue préconisée par la nouvelle mode” or to “give the slim and long silhouette advocated by the new fashion” as the description for the Andree Lefaucheur corselet states. A similar corselet by Christian Dior can be found in the Underpinnings Museum’s collection as well as in the French lingerie catalog, Flottant Au Vent.
The Cadolle corselet on page 13 is called “Trianon,” and is described as being made of a very flexible Lastex tulle with extra flexibility at the thighs and double layers of reinforced panels at the abdomen for extra support. Lastex was elasticized yarn that was used in girdles and swimwear from the 1930s up until 1959, when Spandex was introduced. The top part is made of satin and cut into a point at the center front with lace cups and a large decorative bow at the front below the cups. The Marie-Rose Lebigot corselet, named “Toison d’or” (Golden Fleece), is made of an orchid color voile with slimming panels that lengthen the waist. Then panels around the hips are made of an elastic lace. The Charmis model stands out from the group, as it has an attached petticoat and made from satin and white Chantilly lace. The sides and back are made of an elastic tulle with a slimming chevron panel at the front. The cups are almond-shaped and give a subtly enhancing lift with a small bow between the cups.
On page 12, the Andree Lefaucheur corselet is made of pale pink elastic lace. The front panel and cups are made of pink satin with hand-done inset ecru lace. The girdle is advertised as flexible, lightweight, and comfortable to wear and maintains the natural spacing of the breasts while still shaping them to appear rounder and higher. The Marie-Jose Lapchin model is made entirely of nylon. The neckline is more open with shoulder straps that are placed further out on the shoulder. The is a front panel of double-layer reinforced taffeta and a bow at the center front. This girdle was said to reduce the appearance of the bust and hips creating an allover slimming effect. The Gloriane corselet is made of elastic lace by Tiburce Lebas with satin sections at the front. Tiburce Lebas was a French elastic fabric and knitwear manufacturer based in Lyon France. The cups are made from nylon lace and the neckline is scalloped and edged with pleated lace. This girdle lifts the bust and smooths the hip, with great flexibility in the lower part. It comes in the greatest range of colors: lilac, navy, golden yellow, white, sky blue, pink, and black.
From the collection of Karolina Laskowska
Many thanks to Ellen Greene for the object description and research.
