Date: c. 1924
Origin: France
Brand: Boué Soeurs
This 1924 advertisement is for the French brand, Boué Soeurs (“Boué Sisters”). Translated from French, the large cursive text reads, “The happy day,” followed by a short copy describing the elegance of the “charming young women” pictured. The background, which appears to be a picturesque resort setting, implies that the ensembles were appropriate choices for day wear. The dresses are described as using floral velvet and embroidered organza, with a “happy contrast” between the black velvet and ochre lace. The address for the Paris location of the brand is listed at the bottom.
The brand was founded in 1899 by sisters Madame Sylvie Montegut and Baronne Jeanne d’Etreillis (under their shared maiden name). The house was characterized by overt femininity, created with airy, translucent fabrics, fine laces, ribbonwork, and delicate floral motifs. This complex, but delicate style made the house famous for evening wear and lingerie. The sisters utilized lace so frequently that they designed their own, such as the Filet Boué, a floral patterned lace that became a signature of the house. Silk rosettes were another signature decoration of their garments, such as the one featured on a 1924 camisole in our collection. There are also several examples of Boué Soeurs dresses at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, such as this dainty white dress, and this fragile and elaborate camisole.
The Boué Soeurs’ robe de style dresses were especially popular. This was a popular evening silhouette in the 1920s that drew on eighteenth-century pannier shapes, though with more diaphanous fabrics and less structured petticoats (such as in this advertisement, also in the Underpinnings Collection). An undergarment created to support the robe de style silhouette can be seen here. The dresses pictured in this advertisement are not robe de style, and instead have the slim, straight “boyish” silhouette that was fashionable in the 1920s.
The Boué Soeurs’ house appears to have closed around 1956, although there are conflicting reports.
From the collection of Karolina Laskowska
Many thanks to Katherine Shark for the object description and research.
