Although the brand’s greatest successes were always extravagant bespoke creations, it also created a small number of ready-to-wear ranges. These small collections were intended to make Sparklewren products more accessible, and to provide a regular income that could be used to fund more extravagant passion projects.

The ready-to-wear ranges could be split into two distinct categories: sheer cinchers, and variations on the Bird’s Wing. Sheer corsetry was a major trend in the field throughout the mid-2010s, with strong nylon mesh lending a lingerie inspired twist to designs. The label regularly produced (relatively) minimalist off-the-rack cinchers using these sheer nylon meshes, occasionally finishing them with ‘Sparklewren’ flourishes of lace appliqué and scattered Swarovski crystals.

The ready-to-wear Bird’s Wing corsets were all pared down underbust styles, left plain or only sparsely embellished. These styles were made exclusively as single layers of either coutil or satin. The ranges included the ‘Phoenix’, a longline underbust with a dramatically scooped front, the ‘Little Bird’ shorter line underbust, and the ‘Goldcrest’ cincher.

Even these ‘simplified’ corsets required a huge amount of skill and time to stitch, making them challenging products to scale for a ready-to-wear market. Eventually Jenni decided to  drop these ranges to focus on the thing that made Sparklewren such an exceptional brand: fantastical couture.

The ‘Phoenix’ was an underbust style that extended long over the hip, with a dramatically scopped front top edge. It was made of a single layer of either coutil or satin, and used 14 panels per side with a steel bone at each seam. It was made to order in a limited standard size range.

I was rambling on with my guest today about why I love the Birds Wing corsets… The particular way I pattern and construct them creates a very flexible corset, one that eases and flexes around the body in an interesting way…

Essentially, your unique body works with the corset to a greater degree than in most corsetry. If the swell of your hip is towards the front or very much broad sideways… if your ribs protrude or are sleek and narrow… if your natural cross-section is a flattened oval or rounded shape… the Bird’s Wing flexes to accommodate it. The silhouette is essentially one of a conical hourglass, but this subtlety of interaction between corset and body means that these standard-sizes are surprisingly versatile.

– Jenni Hampshire,  July 2013

The pattern features 10 panels per side and is a single-layer of coutil as this gives a strong but flexible garment. Each seam acts as a hinge, allowing the corset to flex to accommodate your unique shape. If your hips are full side-to-side or front-to-back, the Goldcrest (and my Birds Wing corsets) will move to suit more than any other corset design. The biscuit and dove, in particular, have a softer hand than the mink and so mold to your shape swiftly.

Likewise, the use of spirals rather than flats allows the seams to flex laterally as needed. Such a system accommodates weight fluctuations with greater ease than most corsetry and helps reduce potential pressure points. The corsets are put together with a strong antique-inspired construction, using specially made equipment and an industrial sewing machine, which creates such a solid seam that the 4mm spirals are more than adequate for the style’s intended use (ordinary wear as fashion or lingerie, but not 24hr waist-training). The Goldcrest is a deceptively technical design, which is perhaps why I have many corsetmaker clients for it.

– Jenni Hampshire, July 2017