Chapter Nine: Where Angels

‘Where Angels’ was the second Sparklewren ‘Curated Collection’, and marked a new direction for the brand: undistilled opulence, with designer Jenni Hampshire fully embracing the return to creating Art.

As with ‘Falling Blossoms’, the designs’ roots could be found in the experimental sample pieces that served to refine the collection’s distinct aesthetics. ‘Pyrite’, ‘Unicorn’ and ‘Jonah’ each embraced muted satin tones with encrusted metallic lace, beading and highly textural crystals and shells.

'Pyrite' and 'Unicorn' Corsets by Sparklewren. Modelled by Helen Teiman and Sarah Simms. Photography by Jenni Hampshire
'Pyrite' and 'Unicorn' Corsets by Sparklewren. Modelled by Helen Teiman and Sarah Simms. Photography by Jenni Hampshire
'Pyrite' and 'Unicorn' Corsets by Sparklewren. Modelled by Helen Teiman and Sarah Simms. Photography by Jenni Hampshire
'Pyrite' and 'Unicorn' Corsets by Sparklewren. Modelled by Helen Teiman and Sarah Simms. Photography by Jenni Hampshire
'Pyrite' Corset by Sparklewren. Modelled by Helen Teiman. Photography by Jenni Hampshire
'Jonah' Silk & Feather Overbust Corset By Sparklewren. The Underpinnings Museum. Photography by Tigz Rice

'Jonah' Silk & Feather Overbust Corset By Sparklewren

Date: 2013-2016

Origin: Birmingham, United Kingdom

Fabric: Dark taupe iridescent silk duchess, black satin cotton-viscose blend coutil, bronze leavers lace, old gold lace trim, pyrite stones/beads, burgundy dyed freshwater pearls, copper and rose-gold beads, rose-gold chain, natural ostrich feathers, flat steel boning, front busk (sewn permanently closed), two-part eyelets, and flat cotton lacing.

 

An extravagant, one-of-a-kind corset that utilises traditional construction techniques with contemporary couture embellishment techniques. An outer fabric of silk duchesse is lined with satin coutil. Each seam is sewn in a historically inspired ‘lapped’ construction, enclosing narrow 5mm spiral steel bones.

This corset has had many evolutions: it began its life as the ‘Bird Of Prey’, a corsetted dress with the feathered skirt extending to the knees and feathers framing the bustline. The pattern and construction technique for this design are based on the same ones as the ‘Strawberry Leopard’ corset. The technique for the sprays of feathers on the garment’s skirt were inspired by an Alexander McQueen gown and were applied with the help of an intern.

In 2016, the full feather skirt was cut off to leave only the hips of feather embellishment. The corset was then further embellished with rose gold chains, pyrite stones, metallic lace and baroque freshwater pearls. It was renamed ‘Jonah’, after a cat of the designer’s friends with the same colouration as the garment.

'Unicorn' corset by Sparklewren. Photography by Danielle Kwan
'Unicorn' corset by Sparklewren. Photography by Danielle Kwan
'Unicorn' corset by Sparklewren. Photography by Danielle Kwan
'Unicorn' corset by Sparklewren. Photography by Danielle Kwan
'Unicorn' corset by Sparklewren. Photography by Danielle Kwan
'Unicorn' corset by Sparklewren. Photography by Danielle Kwan
'Unicorn' corset by Sparklewren. Photography by Danielle Kwan

What is ‘Where Angels…’?

It is our lapse of caution. It is your moment of wildness. It is a celebration.

Where Angels will bring us full circle from the mission we laid down at the beginning of 2015. The year was an absolute gift in many respects, kickstarted by a perhaps foolish desire to pursue the pure creation of couture level corsetry, regardless of consequences or risk. We went on to produce work that ranks amongst my proudest moments as a craftsperson, for customers who understood the work better than ever.

Where Angels therefore celebrates whim and caprice, alongside beauty and elegance. Sometimes we need to throw caution to the wind. Be a little foolhardy. Memories aren’t made of sensible stories…

Fools rush in where angels fear to tread. And I don’t mind being slightly foolhardy occasionally…

The Where Angels curated collection will, in essence, follow the same format as the Falling Blossoms collection of last Summer. A limited number of designs pivoting around one beautiful and flattering aesthetic. Oopulent designs fit for queens and princesses, made bespoke to your preferences, colours, etc.

– Jenni Hampshire, December 2015

'Where Angels' design development sketches by Jenni Hampshire
'Where Angels' design development sketches by Jenni Hampshire
'Where Angels' design development sketches by Jenni Hampshire
'Where Angels' Fe corset sketch by Jenni Hampshire

Fe. A delicate cincher-belt of silk duchess and lace appliqué, draped in hand-strung fool’s gold beading. We would recommend cut beads (squares, coins and spheres) to best catch the light, but a more rough approach could be taken with raw chips and stones used instead.

'Where Angels' Little Fool corset sketch by Jenni Hampshire

Little Fool. Inspired by the feeling that everyone should adopt a breezy and carefree approach to life, even if only for brief shining moments, this longline underbust is almost a miniature version of Pyrite. Heavily embellished in a symmetric fashion, we can picture Little Fool styled with pants and white shirt, or as the opulent centre-piece of a luscious party outfit.

'Where Angels' Foolish corset sketch by Jenni Hampshire

Foolish. This is the piece most closely related to Pyrite, the muted green corset which started it all. Symmetric embellishment gives grandeur and opulence, whilst the fool’s gold beads and stones can be off-set by almost any colour. The wonderful thing about fool’s gold is how changeable it is… It is such a curious non-colour that one could create something very bridal and almost silvery simply by using an off-white or grey base silk. We can therefore see this piece as classic bridal, but look to the original Pyrite corset for inspiration on how to style it as either fantasy couture, high fashion, or casual party chic.

'Where Angels' Luxe corset sketch by Jenni Hampshire

Luxe. Strands and strands of hand-knotted fool’s gold beads, cut in a variety of shapes to capture and scatter the light, wrap around a silk duchess bodice, almost entirely obscuring the silk base. The fabric beneath may additionally be beaded or embellished with lace appliqué depending upon the participant’s preference. We can picture the base silk in a richly surprising colour, perhaps tulip red or deep cyclamen pink… though a range of colours are of course available.

'Where Angels' Queen corset sketch by Jenni Hampshire

Queen. The fifth design of Where Angels is an opulent and heavily embellished gown, designed as either special occasion wear or bridal. With a focus on symmetry this is a regal piece. We could picture it within the context of a masquerade ball or some other grand affair. With a curving bust, impressive embellishment, sleek lines and adaptable drapes for shoulder coverage or a train dropping from the upper back, Queen is sure to be the gown of a lifetime.

'Where Angels' Snowdrop corset sketch by Jenni Hampshire

Snowdrop. The final design of Where Angels is a showstopping bridal gown woven from dreams… Silk organza falls like a snowdrop, with lace appliqué and a partial lining for shape and modesty. Lace and stone encrusting covers the entire bodice, whilst a full silk organza veil completes the ensemble. We can also envisage a fool’s gold hair comb, as a finishing touch.

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